Dream Range
"Vivek, I am sending you to what has remained a dream range for me . DIG Jalpaiguri Range, ok?"
I told him, with much feigned humility that it was indeed a privilege to be chosen by the HoPF to live his dream on my promotion to the rank of DIG in 2004. Anyways, as I had the security of retention of a government flat at 32, Ballygunge Circular Road, where Bhaiya also stayed in the same RHE, I went to what was a moth eaten range it now remained, leaving my family behind. When I was SP Darjeeling, the Range DIG, Jalpaiguri looked after all the districts north of Farakka ( I hope my readers born and brought up in Kolkata can name all of them ) but now it was just Jalpaiguri and Cooch Behar districts.
Prod for peacekeeping
When my batchmate Zulfiquar messaged from Freetown to try for a Sierra Leone UN Peacekeeping assignment (UNAMSIL) , I jumped at it. If one has to stay away from the family, then one might as well go abroad, earn some dollars and acquire international work experience to boot. As luck would have it, I was selected and on 4th of September, 2004, along with Amar Pandey, Indu Bhushan , Tanamay Ray Choudhury and Vimal Bisht , we boarded an Air France plane, transited from Paris to a place called Conakry , and then were heli lifted to touch down on the UN Helipad just as the sun sank into the Atlantic beyond the Lumley beach.
The why of UN Missions
Many are curious to know what a UN Peacekeeping Mission is and why policemen are taken on these missions. Even though not mentioned explicitly , peacekeeping draws its locus from Chapter VI( Pacific Settlement of Disputes ) and VI of the UN Charter It is a way to help countries torn by conflict create conditions to progress towards sustainable peace. United Nations peacekeepers have taken part in a total of 72 missions around the globe, 14 of which continue today. The peacekeeping force as a whole received the Nobel Peace Prize in 1988.
Missions have been established for a variety of reasons- to observe and maintain ceasefire like the 1948 Arab- Israeli conflict ( UNTSO) ; international conflicts like in Cyprus between the ethnic Greeks and Turks ( 1964) or Iraq- Kuwait Observation Mission in 1991; to facilitate decolonization like ONUC in Congo (from Belgium); a large number of Middle Eastern conflicts like UNOGIL in 1958 at Lebanon,UNYOM in Yemenin 1963; civil wars related to ethnic cleansing and genocide like in Rwanda and the ones following break up of Yugoslavia ( the latter saw eight missions), Somalia, Haiti, Sudan, Liberia , Burundi, Ivory Coast ,etc; and for independence facilitation in Namibia, East Timor and Western Sahara.
Moneybags peacekeepers
UN assignments evince mixed reactions from colleagues and friends. Most think of them as fun jaunt with dollars in the bargain. It is often forgotten that UN Peacekeeping Missions are established in countries in violent conflict , and chances of falling in the crossfire - either being taken hostage or even getting injured or killed remains a real threat. UNAMSIL , when it wound up, had a total of 192 UN fatalities: 69 troops, 2 military observers, 2 international civilians, 16 local civilians, 1 police, and 2 others ( a memorial in honour of martyr Havildar Krishna Kumar of INDBATT in UNAMSIL built by locals at a place called Daru is affixed), In an earlier Mission to Mozambique in mid 1990s, a peacekeeper from West Bengal was taken as hostage. 4207 ( maximum 175 from India) have died - I think now the figure is higher. When I was Sierra Leone, I had received a mail from DPKO to assist some officers from DPR Congo to render assistance to their officers for exhuming the bodies of that country’s peacekeepers who had succumbed to Lassa Fever- and given its infectivity, the medical protocol demanded an immediate burial in graves deeper than the normal and exhumation only after six years.
UNAMSIL
The Mission in Sierra Leone called UNAMSIL was established in 1999 to end the civil war , after consolidatory work by a previous mission called United Nations Observers Mission in Sierra Leone or UNOMSIL . It was to implement the Lomé Accord which included demobilisation and disarmament of the RUF, a rebel outfit supported by the the renegade President Charles Taylor of Liberia , and their reintegration ; protection of civilians ; humanitarian assistance, etc. The Civil War in Sierra Leone had been one of the bloodiest - killings, amputations, sexual assaults, vandalism and arson, up-roofing of houses and destruction of community/government properties.
The initial years
The initial years of the Mission had been rather eventful, one of which was Operation Khukhri-
a joint land and air British and Indian Army units of the UN to rescue over 500 peacekeepers from Kailahun who had been surrounded by RUF rebels - this operation was to inspire a movie by the same name starring Shah Rukh Khan. However, by the time we reached in 2004 , peace had been largely established , but the Indian army which was in the lead in the initially tough years of conflict, had withdrawn .When we reached , it was the Pakistani Army under its Force Commander Maj Gen Sajjad Akram which was in the lead - my first UN Peace Medal was pinned by him only.Induction into the Mission
The start of the mission was a bit stressful. We were lodged in the ground floor rooms of Hotel Mammyoko, the HQ of UNAMSIL. Wary of contacting cerebral malaria, we went out in full sleeves- but despite precautions, all of us contacted the cerebral malaria- yours truly twice. Unfortunately, the first test for motor driving permit was conducted by one Irish officer Francis - and none of us could pass. We didn't know, like I believe 90% of Indian drivers, who has the right of way among vehicles approaching a roundabout or a crossing, how often to look in the rear view mirror or even pull up the vehicle properly ( later on, after a month of two, under a benign Cameroonian examiner, we passed our tests). Tanamay and Vimal hyper stressed poor Indubhushan suggesting, after the first failure, a second one could invite repatriation! It did not help that UN CIVPOL ( Civilian Police) Commissioner was a bit hostile and sent us to the provinces - and me to the most distant, Kailahun.
Anyway, there were silver linings. Firstly our Indian colleagues, Zulfiquar and Thota Rao, at whose house we would visit and stay during HQ visits, were immensely helpful . For most of the evenings, the only source of light came from the candles mounted on empty bottles of Jim Beam - the National Power Authority was a hugely Non Performing Asset. Secondly, there were other senior Indians, notable Major General Bhagat (Retd), Rajinder Dhawan and a large number of other countrymen in the technical services of the Mission, Thirdly, the Pakistanis, being in command , were quite helpful. Post Kargil wounds had healed , and it was quite a bonhomie. The Pakistani Army was all over. Fourthly, Amar and I had become members of Freetown Golf Club - an 18 hole course with browns instead of greens - by the Atlantic. At the club, we made friends with one Vinod , an Indian married to a Sierra Leonean lawyer , Luba, a woman of Chinese- Russian extract whose ex husband was a local minister in a previous government, many officers of IMATT ( mostly British) and even a Lutheran Pastor from Germany called Fritz, Of course, we gradually made friends with a large number of UNAMSIL colleagues from other parts of the world as well. It was my first exposure to truly international cuisine and lovely beaches as well.
Kailahun and PAKBATT mohabbat
I was initially posted to Kailahun, an eastern province abutting Liberia. Kailahun also had a PAKBAT HQ which was also the provider of our meals . Every evening from the team site where the CIVPOLS ( Civilian police of UN ) and MILOBS ( Military Observers of the UN) stayed next to a mosque , two team site vehicles would go to fetch biryani and korma from the PAKBATT kitchen at a nominal charge of a dollar per meal , which was good enough for two meals, dinner and lunch. Breakfast was milk and muesli and egg at the team site which was equipped with a coffee machine, microwave, fridge and a stove.
There was this Uruguayan MILOB ( Military Observer ) who would insist that I go with him .
“Vivek, they pamper and give you huge quantities of food , but they starve me.”
“Saab, bahut khata hai yeh mota ,” Havildar Sikandar Khan would tell me”, chaar aadmi ka khana akele kha jataa hai.”
When the unit wound up and departed, we moved into the site vacated by PAKBATT. While leaving, the Havildar handed me a huge store of jams, ketchup, juices, pickles, etc.
The PAK BATT would distribute biryani twice a day to about 30-50 people everyday, as part of its community outreach. When it was leaving, as part of Mission drawdown, I asked the local police station commander , one Sylvester Kamara, whether he apprehends unrest by the people who would no longer get free food. He said, absolutely not. All these people were solvent enough to have food at home, it is just that when free food was offered, no one refused. And he was bang on target. There was no murmur of protest.
Flat tyre
When I returned to Freetown from Kailahun , and later assumed the charge of OIC CIVPOL ( heading the UN Civilian Police ) , the bonhomie continued. Maj. General Bhagat was heading the Mission integrated technical services , and often he would organise parties where Pakistani military officers were sometimes invited - and the language of the evenings would generally be Punjabi. My Punjabi being even worse than my driving , I limited my interest to food and beverage, and gossip with the Pakistani police officers - one was a Sindhi and other a Baluchi , both not really enamoured of the Army and the Punjabis in their country.
Once , I had just returned to Mammyoko Hotel from Koidu where my colleague Tanamay was located. It was a long drive, and I had driven alone in the Nissan Patrol .The Nissan Patrol was issued to heads of sections , but the basic and almost omnipresent vehicle of the MIssion was the smaller Toyota 4 wheel drive model. On return , after an almost 350 km journey, through jungles , mud tracks , and deserted highways , I left the office to go out for lunch, only to find there was a flat tyre in my car. Major Zaman who was walking with me when I spotted it, asked me to leave the matter , and instead asked one of his Havildars to change the tyre and get the punctured one fixed at the workshop. I was grateful, I had never replaced a flat tyre , except once in a test on Motor Mechanics Test at NPA, Hyderabad.
We walked back for lunch, and when I returned, the Havildar was there to hand me the keys.
“Shukriya,” I thanked him.
“Janaab, ik baat bolni thhi.”
“Boliye.”
“Khuda ka shukr hai.”
“Kya hua?”
“Aapki stepney iss gaadi ki thhi hi nahin. “
“What? Kiski thhi ?” I blurted , in alarm .
Scenes of vehicles , pulled up for running road repairs, in alarmingly empty stretches in dark hours on the Freetown - Koidu highway, flashed by in my mind.
“Toyota ki thhi,” he smiled, saluted, and walked away.